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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.